The dawn of a new era in fishing using a baitcaster is upon us. This reel, made by U.S. Reels company is a baitcasting reel that represents a new era in the mechanics of baitcasting reels. Much like U.S. Reels supercaster spinning reels, the SC1000 and the SC1000 Pro were designed to address an ongoing problem with the existing baitcasting reel designs you find with all other reel manufacturers.
Everyone that uses a traditional baitcasting reel is aware of backlashes. This happens when you cast your line out and you don’t properly “thumb” the spool. What happens is backlash and a lot of line that gets tangled up. The reason this happens, is the traditional level wind spool has to pause when you cast out the line then accelerates to catch up. This acceleration can begin a backlash! So how do you minimize backlash? First you must properly “thumb the spool in order to control or stop the backlash or you create a baitcaster with no eyelet, which adds to the backlash problem.
That’s exactly what the U.S Reels company did. They created a reel with no eyelet, which will allow the line to leave the reel straight and virtually free of friction, regardless of the position of the line. How does it work?
The new baitcaster has an “angled bar levelwind” which is the heart of the system that levels the line on the spool by a rotating angle bar which creates a see-saw effect to guide the line instead of an eyelet. The rolling motion of the bar levels the line, but during the casting phase does not restrict the line like a typical levelwind eyelet.
The levelwind is also adjustable. The height of the new levelwind system regulates casting control. When in the highest position, the angled bar minimizes the need to thumb the reel during a cast and yet the reel casts farther than most reels because the reel is not limited by the eyelet. When in a lower position look out because the reel will literally cast a long, long distance.
The spool on this reel actually rotates the wrong way. It works better this way because it is best mechanically with the angle bar action levelwind. An angle is required for the see- saw action to work. When the line comes from below, it creates this angle. Spool control is easier with the spool turning into the thumb, rather than moving away from the thumb. Backlashes are rare. If they do happen, they come untangled easier. There isn’t much of a learning curve with this reel compared to a traditional levelwind baitcasting reel. If you always wanted to fish with a baitcaster but were afraid of backlashes, well this is the reel for you! Either way this reel makes fishing with a baitcast style reel much easier, and more enjoyable.

U.S.Reels

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Anyone use this reel? How does it compare to the Abu Garcia 6500C3? I know it does not hold as much line, but will it handle big stripers and a 7 foot heavy action rod fishing deep?

I have been able to get in some US reels supercaster refurbs for about 3 months off and on. I have to tell you these reels are in great shape.  I get them directly from the manufactuer. Great deals on almost new, with 90 day warranty.

Anyone else use refurbished  reels before?

Would like to know your luck with them and where you found them.

I have a customer looking for some double Buzz baits that are durable. Any suggestions out there? I suggested Booyah baits but he said they tend to fall apart to easily. News to me.

Let me know what you are using.

Jeff

I went fishing with my neighbor today and he showed me a nice plastic worm technique that has produced some nice bass for the both of us. Some were small but they were still fun to catch. He was using a “senko” plastic worm with black and red colors. He always uses a 5 inch size to try to keep the little ones away. I have been using it also and to my surpirse been also getting some fish on. We would drift with the wind and cast into the drift so the worm would be able to sink, then reeling in slightly to pull in the slack. The fish would hit the worm on the way down as we were drifting toward the lure. it worked great!

So there you have it. My fishing day today.

How about yours???

The nightcrawler is deadly, devastating, and irresistible when used properly. For years the crawler has emerged as the number one live bait among the majority of freshwater fishermen in this country, with good reason. It will produce where others fail!

But not just any nightcrawler! By now, we’re sure, you have heard and read about the conditioned crawler, a worm, through a temperature controlled feeding process, becomes thicker and juicier, and livelier than the ordinary store bought worm. Well, its true, this conditioned worm is indeed a much more appealing enticement to fish than its lazy counterpart. On the hook, the conditioned worm nightcrawler is a virtual acrobat, twisting, jumping, and moving about as if possessed. And he will last longer, hours longer, than a regular worm in the water! In this article, we’ll give you instructions as to how you can grow nightcrawlers like this in just a three-day period. It is not a difficult process to learn. You can do it and do it right after you have absorbed all of the facts to be revealed here.

The culling process – You pick the right ones!

The most important step in preparing your nightcrawlers for conditioning is to separate the healthy crawlers from the smaller, weak crawlers. This is called culling. As a rule no matter where you buy your live bait, you are going to get a mixture of good and bad worms. Cull the little ones from the bunch and set aside at least three dozen crawlers for the conditioning process.

The bedding makes the best results.

There are many choices of worm bedding on the market today. Choose one that you feel will work the best in you area, then fill a container about half full. Then pour in just enough water to make the bedding moist. Be careful not to put in too much water. You don’t want it too soggy. Next, soak some newspaper and pack it loosely over the top of the bedding. Make sure you have put some nightcrawlers in the bedding before you lay the newspaper in. The next step is temperature control. Temperature is the key to making these crawlers turn out, as you want them to. If its to warm in the storage area they will die. The proper storage temperature for worms in the conditioning stages is 50-60 degrees. Usually the coolest area in your basement will do the job or a spare refrigerator with the temperature set at 50-60 degrees would be good too. Now wait three days and get ready for a great site. You won’t believe it! The crawlers will literally jump at you. They will squirm like crazy, ready to place on a hook.

The best method for fishing the conditioned crawler is in combination with the bottom rig. But before you cast that worm in the water, first inject two small blasts of air into the crawler. You can purchase air injectors from almost all tackle stores. What this does is allows the crawler to float 12 to 18 inches off the lake bottom, thus in full view of any fish in the area. Be sure to hook that crawler just once through the tip of the nose, so he will be able to move freely on the hook and appear very natural to the fish. One thing is quite certain; the conditioned nightcrawler will out produce the ordinary store bought crawler every time. Sometimes the results can be spectacular! One other thing to remember is that after the crawlers have been conditioned is they must be kept somewhat cool. Don’t leave them exposed to the sun at any time. Keep them in a shady area of the boat or in the cooler. This recipe for success has been proven over and over again. The conditioned nightcrawler is a deadly fishing bait for almost any freshwater fish.

I have been researching fishing reels for sometime now. I realize how they are made inregards to the body type, how many ball bearings are in the reel and why etc. But, how do you recommend to someone who is looking for “the best fishing reel for Catfish” or the best for musky fishing etc. First lets talk catfishing. Some people fish for catfish that can weigh at 35 to 50 lbs! What reel would be the best?? You fish for catfish differently than you do for, lets say Musky or Walleye, so what recommendations are there? Baitcasting reels or spinning reels are the best. Lets talk!

Fishing on the ice can be pleasant and rewarding with the right equipment. Using the right ice auger, fishing pole, tip-up, line, reel, and wearing the proper clothing is all part of ice fishing success. Let’s face it, if are not comfortable, you will not enjoy the ice fishing experience. If you don’t have the proper equipment, or good working equipment, you may not have success or very much fun!

The Tip-Up is necessary in my mind because it allows you to fish in numerous spots all at the same time. I start with three holes in the ice and three tip-ups all positioned about 30 to 40 feet or more from each other so you are fishing different areas of the lake at one time rather than sitting at one spot with a fishing pole. I like to sit in one spot jigging with a fishing pole while keeping an eye out for all the tip-ups, so I’m actually fishing 4 spots all at the same time, increasing my chances of catching fish greatly. Be careful not to place the tip-ups to far away from where you are going to be. You need to make sure you are able to get there quick enough when you get a bite.

As far as tip-ups go, use good quality equipment because you don’t want problems out on the ice after going through all the trouble of drilling holes and getting your gear all together not to mention the walk to your favorite spots. I use the Beaver Dam tip-up from the Arctic Fisherman. This tip-up has been around for more than 60 years! Its quality is second to none. I have discovered that fisherman and women who buy a Beaver Dam tip-up are educated about the sport of ice fishing and aware of its quality craftsmanship, traditions, and fish catching ability. Unlike most other tip-ups the Beaver Dam tip-up is totally repairable if something does go wrong with it. Everything is repairable on the Beaver Dam Tip-up. The Arctic Fisherman company, who makes the tip-up re-grease about 1,000 tip-ups per season with a freeze proof lubricant that is still a family secret to this day. This lubricant works better than anything else on the market.

The Beaver Dam tip up is a solid brass, flag-holding, spin-trigger that is tapered on one end to release the flag rod after the lightest of bites, which means you want to make sure you are not to far away so you can set the hook quickly. Plus it also features anti-wind slots for breezy conditions, and to slow down the action for heavier strikes. The spin trigger rod is supported by an aluminum bearing and a seamless steel tube filled with freeze-proof lubricant. The underwater mechanism consists of a snag-proof free running spool topped by a heavy duty solid brass line guide designed to eliminate drag by swinging into the direction of the strike and yet heavy enough to prevent unwinding by the live bait.

This may sound like an endorsement of this product because it is. This is the best quality tip-up on the market and with factory support! Go Ice Fishing and take a child with you. Here is a DNR website that gives you a list of everything you need to go ice fishing.

http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/caer/ce/eek/nature/icefish.htm

Jeff Bausch has been fishing for over 40 years. He started a lake map business with the best fishing spots marked plus a fishing newspaper many years ago. Fishing has always been a passion, now he is sharing his fishing knowledge about how to use lake maps and how to fish any lake with great success.

Many years ago I discovered the usefulness of a lake map. A lake map usually has many characteristics on it. Mostly it will identify the depth of the lake. It will also identify structure points of the lake. Such as, sand bars, gravel pits andunder water roads, rocky points, mud or muck etc. Some lake map companies even mark the best fishing spots according to the depth and structure within the lake or on top of the lake like overhanging trees, reeds or lily pads to name a few. When the best fishing spots are marked they are also identifying what species’ of fish might be at that particular structure point. The main reason you need a lake map is to identify all of these structure points so you can plan your fishing day efficiently. Knowing where to fish, even before you put your boat in the water, can increase your chances of catching fish greatly. Let me explain. Many fishermen and women start to fish early in the morning, lets say you start at 6am. If you were like me in the past, you would put the boat in the water and then motor to the other side of the lake or motor far away from the boat ramp wasting valuable fishing time. With a map, you will have the ability to plan where you will fish before you put the boat in the water. Then go to the nearest spot from the boat launch that has good structure. Chances are there may be 4 or 5 spots that have good structure for the fish you may be fishing for. If you only spend 30 minutes at each spot, after you have fished it hard, then move to the next spot, you could hit 4 spots in the first 2 hours of prime fishing time from 6am to 8am possibly doubling your chances of catching fish. I use to hit 2 spots in that 2 hour period, now I hit 4 or 5.

The reason I feel comfortable leaving a spot after 30 minutes is because I fished it hard and did not get a bite, that means there are no fish there at that time. So I move to the next spot and do the same thing.

I have told many fisherman and women about this easy technique to a lot of people over the years while I had my fishing map company. I would get numerous letters telling me about their fishing success.

Jeff Bausch has been fishing for over 40 years. He started a lake map business with the best fishing spots marked plus a fishing newspaper many years ago. Fishing has always been a passion, now he is sharing his fishing knowledge about how to use lake maps and how to fish any lake with great success.

<a href=”http://www.myfishinggoods.com”>Fishing Tackle Supply store</a> with all your fishing needs.

This is my first article on how to catch fish on any lake. This system is a basic fishing idea based on the structure of a lake designed to give you a starting point in order to be successfull. Let me know if you have used this style before and share your ideas to make it better. The choice of lures or live bait may change depending on what your are fishing for and the time of the year. Good Fishing!!

START CATCHING FISH USING THE STRUCTURE ELIMINATION SYSTEM!!

Simply put this System is a systematic elimination of the various structures that exist in all lakes.

First of all, this system is not for the lazy man! It involves a continuous process of moving around the lake in set time periods.

You will need basic equipment to get started. First you will need three rods in the boat (most of you have two with you anyway). What kind of rods? We’ll leave that to your discression. It all depends what you are fishing for. Usually, we recommend two medium-light rods and one medium-heavy rod: this allows you to handle all species of fish and ALL sizes!

Once equipped with three rods, the next important step is in picking the baits to attach to them.

ON THE FIRST ROD – we’ll attach a jig or a Booyah Spinner bait. As far as color is concerned, use the age-old fishing rule: Light day light color; dark day dark color. Obviously, this can all vary depending on what part of the country you’re fishing in.

ON THE SECOND ROD – we’ll attach a bottom rig (like the Lindy Rig) or any rig that you can attach some live bait to. Maybe a bobber or float depending on the depth of the structure you are fishing or if you are close to a weedbed and you want to stay in a certain spot and depth.

ON THE THIRD ROD – we’ll attach an artificial bait, of your choice, although we suggest that you stick to those artificials that are known for their fish-catching effectiveness… Rapala, Rebel, Bomber Baits, Booyah Baits etc. Also keep in mind, ask what works on that particular lake at the bait shop you will probably go to. Especially if you don’t know the lake very well. Even if you do, you will probably ask anyway.

On the first rod, you have an option – the jig can either be fished as is or combined with live bait: Nightcrawlers in the summer and Minnows in the spring and fall. You can use other live baits, too, depending on the species and size of fish you are after.

On the second rod, you do not have an option -the bottom rig must be fished in combination with live bait. Again, we strongly suggest crawlers (Summer) and minnows (Spring and Fall) the majority of the time and also depending on what part of the country you are in.

Here’s how it works…. your first few minutes on the lake are spent observing the surrounding water and shorelines. Utilizing a lake map is also a handy tool to identify and plan where to start fishing. YOU ARE LOOKING FOR STRUCTURE!! You notice a patch of reeds. That’s a starting point. You motor over and begin with the three rod process of elimination. You are working within a 30-minute time period. In other words, in 30 minutes, using the live and artificial bait combinations on the three rods, you are to fully cover that structure in an effort to determine if fish are present.

Believe this, through a fan casting or drifting or trolling procedure, you will learn quickly if there is any action to be had. REMEMBER THIS…. fish are migratory creatures. They seldom stay in one place for more than a few minutes: if you’re lucky, 20 to 30 minutes. They DO move from spot to spot. So, even if you are fishing a known hotspot or one that seems potentially productive, DON’T be surprised if there is no action to be had. And by using the three bait approach with a 30-minute period to establish contact, you WILL KNOW if they are or are not there!

So what do you do if, after 30 minutes, that patch of reeds produces nothing? YOU MOVE ON, to another structure. No, it doesn’t matter. There never has been a time when catching fish was really difficult…there are certain rules of fishing that, when applied consistently, will never fail to yield limits of fish, no matter the species. If a fisherman does fail, then it is not the supposedly wily, wary, and mysterious fish that causes all the problems; but rather, the fisherman himself who probably lacks the very basic knowledge about fish, their habits and habitats. Weather systems also affect fishing. Understanding high pressure systems are better for fishing as opposed to low pressure systems.

With the Structure Elimination System, a fisherman does not have to be a modern day fishing genius to be successful. Not by a long shot! Let’s face it, with organizations popping up all over the place, extolling the joys of scientific fishing, well, it’s no small wonder that a good many average fishermen are beginning to feel left out in the race for fishing limits and lunkers. It’s almost as if these so-called scientists are trying to convince the world that their way is the only way to ensure success in fishing. But consider this, long before these super pros came along, there were men who did catch fish consistently using the same basic rules of fishing that has been responsible for fishing success. Using the Structure Elimination System, you get back to these basics and reap tremendous rewards as a result. What type of structure – JUST STRUCTURE! And, once again, you begin the 30-minute elimination method using the different bait presentations.

That IS the Structure Elimination System. It’s simple. It’s effective. It works! On the average, in an 8 to 10 hour fishing day, most guys will never hit more that four or five spots, if that. Using our system, you can hit 15 to 20 spots a day! The key though is your willingness to stick faithfully to the plan, the continuous moving-from-spot-to-spot process. If you do that, then you WILL be successful using this system of catching fish.

Jeff Bausch – fisherman for 40 years and still learning.

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